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Poker Hand Rankings

Posted by: HardKnox on June 21st | Comments (0)

This is a complete list of poker hand rankings. The list goes from the lowest strength hand to the highest. If you don’t know the poker hand rankings, this is definitely the place to start. Even seasoned players occasionally misread their hand, costing them money. Before you start playing make sure you have this information down to where you know the hand rankings without even thinking about it.

~ High Card ~

In a situation where there is no pair or better, the highest card wins. If the high card is shared by both players the second high card will be used to determine the winner, and so on.

~ A Pair ~

Any two cards of the same rank. The highest pair will win the pot. If both players hold the same pair the “kicker” will determine the winner.

~ Two Pair ~

A two pair hand consists of two cards of one rank and two cards of another rank. The fifth card is the kicker and is only relevant when two players hold the same two pair hand.

~ Three of a Kind ~

Three cards of the same rank is considered three of a kind. When determining the winner in a pot where more than one player holds a three of a kind, the highest rank three of a kind wins. If there is a tie, the winner is the player with the highest kicker.

~ Straight ~

A straight consists of five cards in sequential order. The ace may count as a high card as in TJQKA or as a low as in A2345. The ace may not be considered a high and low as in QKA23.

~ Flush ~

A flush is a five card hand containing all of the same suit. When more than one player holds a flush, the highest flush will take down the pot.

~ Full House ~

Three cards of one rank combined with two cards of another rank makes a full house. If more than one player has a full house, the hand that has the highest of the three same ranked cards wins.

~ Four of a Kind ~

Four cards of all the same rank. Four of a kind is a fairly rare hand to see, and therefore, is almost never beaten.

~ Straight Flush ~

A straight flush combines both a straight and a flush in one hand. In order to have a straight flush one most have five cards of the same suit in sequential order.

~ Royal Flush ~

A royal flush is really just the highest possible straight flush, which in poker is the absolute “nuts”.

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Identifying Player Types

Posted by: HardKnox on May 8th | Comments (0)

Why Categorize Poker Players?

By categorizing players into specific groups you are able to make certain assumptions about their play. These assumptions will enable you to play closer to an optimal strategy against that player. You need to learn the basic player types and then learn the techniques to punish each player type.

It is said that if you know your enemies and know yourself, you will not be imperiled in a hundred battles; if you do not know your enemies but do know yourself, you will win one and lose one; if you do not know your enemies nor yourself, you will be imperiled in every single battle.

   -Sun Tsu, The Art of War

Aggression

When discussing a player’s level of aggression the two primary groups that we put them into are passive and aggressive.

Passive: A passive player generally elects to check rather than bet, or call rather than raise. Passive players do not win pots by making their opponent fold. Because they do not make their opponents fold, they must always have the best hand to win.

Aggressive: An aggressive player is more comfortable betting or raising rather than calling and checking. By playing aggressively, a player will pick up many pots without holding the best hand. This opponent type is much more difficult to play against than the passive player because they will always keep you guessing and cause you to make mistakes either by folding the best hand or calling with the worst hand.

Tightness

A player’s willingness to put money in the pot is defined as loose or tight.

Loose: A loose player likes to play a wide range of starting hands. They also don’t like giving up after the flop and will often call bets with marginal holdings. Overly loose players are seldom bluffed off the best hand, but often lose at showdown.

Tight: Tight players have a very specific starting hand requirement. They are fine folding often before the flop. After the flop a tight player must have a stronger than average hand to continue putting money in the pot. Due to the tight player’s strong starting hands and ability to fold post flop, they will often show down the best hand, but will lose many pots to bluffs.

The Poker Player Categories

Loose Passive (LP): Loose passive players can be very profitable to play against. They tend to call bets with very weak holdings and they seldom bet or raise as a bluff. You should play very straightforward against these players. Bet relentlessly when you have a strong hand and check/fold when you don’t. They key to profit against these players is simply to bet for maximum value rather than trying to get tricky.

Tight Passive (TP): Tight passive players can be frustrating to play against. They fold often before the flop, and must have a strong hand in order to continue after the flop. They seldom bet or raise unless they have a very strong hand. This player type seldom loses big pots, however, they will lose many small pots. In order to beat this player type you must bet frequently in order to pick up pots and be willing to give up when faced with resistance.

Loose Aggressive (LAG): A loose aggressive player will play a wide range of starting hands, and he will play them aggressively. This type of player is difficult to play against because they always put you in tough spots where you are unsure of what to do. This pressure often causes a player to make incorrect decisions. In order to beat a LAG you must pick spots to counter their aggression and sometimes make thin calls with marginal holdings.

Tight Aggressive (TAG): Tight aggressive players play a select group of starting hands. The main difference between the TAG and the tight passive player is that the TAG is willing to bet and make big raises both with their strong hands and as bluffs. This willingness to make bets as bluffs makes the TAG more difficult to play against than their passive counterpart. In order to exploit a TAG’s tendencies, a LAG style can be used. Playing with a LAG style makes it more difficult to read your hand and you can use that to punish a TAG by betting and raising with a wider range.

Remain Flexible

Playing optimal poker means adjusting your strategy in ways that will enable you to exploit your opponent. While a loose passive style may not be ideal against most opponents, it may be perfect when you’re faced with a maniac (a LAG on steroids, and crack). When the maniac continues with his relentless aggression, utilizing a LP style will let him continue betting as a bluff while you sit there calling him down. It sounds easy, but when faced with two barrels and a river shove, and you’re holding second pair, it takes some monster cajones to click the call button.

My next article on player types will discuss specific strategies to use in order to combat player tendencies.

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PF Course: Bankroll Management

Posted by: HardKnox on April 7th | Comments (0)

No matter how good of a poker player you are, you cannot be successful without learning and abiding by good bankroll management techniques. There are several different points of view on this topic, but I’m just going to discuss the method that has worked for me. I’ll briefly explain the theory behind optimal bankroll management and simplify it to make it useful to a poker player.

In order for any bankroll management system to be successful, you must be playing a game with a positive expectation. No amount of money management can turn a negative expectation game (such as roulette) into a winning proposition. So, for long term bankroll management to be effective, you must be a winning player at your game of choice. This might sound obvious but it’s critical that you understand it.

Am I a Winner Yet?

This can be a difficult question to answer. It will take a huge number of hands before you can be absolutely certain that you are a long term winner. In fact, you will never learn your actual win rate in a game because there are so many variables. Even if you continue to play exactly the same over 5 millions hands, your opponents will change, and your ability to adjust to these changes will affect your win rate. Since it takes so long to determine what your actual win rate is, you may be losing over 20,000 or substantially more hands and still actually be a winner in the long term. Short term variance can be a nasty thing…

Blah blah blah. Am I a winner yet or not? I’ve included a spreadsheet in the Starter Pack that will calculate your actual win rate (as a high and low range) and give you the probability that you are a long term winner.

The Kelly System

In the book, The Mathematics of Gambling, by Edward O. Thorpe, the “Kelly System” is introduced. This system states that a player should wager a fixed percentage of their entire bankroll at a time. The percentage is calculated based on the probability of winning any given wager.

Example: If the probability of winning a particular wager is .52, the optimal bet percentage can be found by using the following formula. Let p equal the probability of winning.

p – (1 – p) = bet
.52 – (1 – .52) = bet
.52 – .48 = .04
.04 = 4%

So, in the above example the player should wager 4% of his bankroll on every wager. When he loses a wager, his bankroll will shrink. Therefore, when his bankroll is smaller, the 4% bet will also be smaller, and of course the opposite is true after winning a wager. By the formula, the larger the probability of winning, the larger the percentage of the bankroll that should be wagered. This system allows for big swings in “luck” to occur while keeping a bankroll safely intact.

Bankroll Management Simplified

The Kelly System is not possible for you as a beginning poker player because there is no way of knowing what your probability of winning is. What we can do is decide on a number to use as your maximum wager (buy in) as a percentage of your total bankroll. If your bankroll can be easily replaced you can use more aggressive bankroll management. If you are using a bankroll that cannot be replaced you must be extremely conservative in the percentage that you use as your buy in amount.

If you want to start off conservative, I recommend buying in for between 2% and 4% of your entire bankroll, depending on your comfort level with the game. This means that with a $50 roll you should only buy in for a maximum of $2 at a time (4%). If you want to play conservative you would require at least a $250 bankroll to start playing with a $10 buy in.

Example: You have a $160 bankroll and want to use aggressive bankroll management. You decide you are comfortable wagering 5% of your roll at a time. Let B equal bankroll and P be the percentage you are willing to wager.

B * P = Buy in
$160 * 5% =
$160 * .05 = $8

In the above example you can buy in for $8 at a time. So let’s assume you buy in for $8 at a .05/.10 game. In the first 5 minutes you double up and now have $16. Now you are risking almost 10% of your bankroll, so you must sit out and find a new table. Of course there is more to it than this. Namely, the effective stack size. If your opponent in this example only has $8 on the table, you are really only risking $8. However, if your opponent wins a big pot and you both now have $12 in your stacks, you’re now risking $12 or 7.5% of your bankroll on this one game.

When playing with aggressive bankroll management you cannot afford to play deep. If you start playing deep you are risking way too much of your bankroll on this one outcome and you must get up and leave. For this reason I like using a more conservative bankroll management formula that can be adjusted to an aggressive strategy if conditions warrant it. By doing this you are not forced to leave profitable situations because you are playing too deep.

Bankroll Management REALLY Simplified

  1. Always play with a bankroll of between 30 and 50 times the buy in at the stake you want to play (60 to 100 buy ins if you are thinking about turning pro). The higher your win rate, comfort level, and willingness to move down in stakes the lower your bankroll requirement should be.
  2. If you lose some buy ins and no longer meet the minimum, it’s time to move down in stakes until you recover.
  3. Set bankroll management rules that you are comfortable with and don’t break them!

Bottom Line

Bankroll management is one of the most important skills you can learn as a poker player. If you can’t effectively manage your bankroll you will limit your income potential and expose yourself to unnecessary risk. Learning bankroll management is only half the battle – you have to be able to implement it and stick to it for it to do you any good.

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Heads Up: Post Flop Basics

Posted by: HardKnox on March 12th | Comments (0)

PokerFlix.com: Poker Training Video

Video Contents

This video covers some basic and more advanced HUNL (Heads up no limit) concepts relating to post flop play. Be sure to watch the HUNL: Basic Play I video covering pre-flop action prior to watching this video.

Time:
Featuring:

37:39
HardKnox

Heads Up: Preflop Basics

Posted by: HardKnox on February 26th | Comments (0)

PokerFlix.com: Poker Training Video

Video Contents

The first step to mastering HUNL (Heads up no limit) games is to understand the pre-flop fundamentals. This video covers a LAG pre-flop HU strategy that is very effective in today’s heads up matches.

Time:
Featuring:

31:26
HardKnox

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